My favorite place is dpreview. While they don't hit every model, the cameras they do review are covered in a thorough and objective manner, and they offer a clear statement of the strengths and weaknesses of each model.
You should keep in mind that the camera market changes rapidly, and that a camera that was "highly recommended" in 2007 may not be a super performer by today's standards.
Another good place for reviews is the Digital Camera Resource Site
On Imaging Resource see Dave's Picks...I love his recommendations.
Here are some of my Camera Recommemdations :
Monday, November 24, 2008
Monday, November 17, 2008
Macro Photography and some neat tips !
Macro photography is close-up photography. In recent years, the term macro has been used in marketing material to mean being able to focus on a subject close enough so that when a regular 6×4 inch (15×10 cm) print is made, the image is life-size or larger. This requires a magnification ratio of only approximately 1:4, more easily attainable by lens makers.
Macro photography is achievd by using a Macro lens. It is a longer lens used to zoom into the subject.
Some macro lenses, like the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor Lens
, can achieve even better magnification – up to 5:1 macro, bringing the structure of small insect eyes, snowflakes, and other minuscule but detailed objects into striking focus. However, it is more common for a photographer to use a "standard" (1:1) macro lens. There are different categories of macro lenses, depending on the focal length:
, can achieve even better magnification – up to 5:1 macro, bringing the structure of small insect eyes, snowflakes, and other minuscule but detailed objects into striking focus. However, it is more common for a photographer to use a "standard" (1:1) macro lens. There are different categories of macro lenses, depending on the focal length:50–60mm range typically used for product photography and small objects
90–105mm range the standard focal range used for insects, flowers, small objects
150–200mm range gives more working distance — typically used for insects and small animals
The article "Macro Photography Tips for Point and Shoot Digital Cameras" by Darren Rowse is great for newbies to understand in a jiffy how to shoot Macro Style !
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Improve Your Photography: Make Portraits Instead of Snapshots
Whether or not you are a professional photographer, you can get professional results from your camera. With planning, you can make your snapshots look more like portraits. The main differences between portraits and snapshots have to do with background, posing and lighting.
Backgrounds in snapshots have distracting elements, don't complement the subject and generally appear unplanned. When composing your shot, watch for bright spots of light behind your subject and anything that will draw your eye away from the main focus. Take a step to one side, zoom in or get closer or even move your subject before taking the picture. A good general rule is that the background should have the same lighting or be slightly darker than the person you are shooting. Busy patterned backgrounds and colors that don't compliment their clothing will also take away from the overall image. If you shoot with an SLR camera step back as far as you can and zoom in on your subject or use a large aperture opening to blur the background. This will make the person in the image pop and will yield very professional results. If color is a problem after the image is taken try turning it into a black and white image. You may end up with some great results.
Posing is not complex. It just requires being mindful of how your subject will appear on a flat photograph. Picking up a basic book on posing isn't a bad idea. Although studio posing and outdoor posing are slightly different the rules will be the same. Make sure your subject looks relaxed. Even the best posing is spoiled if someone appears stiff and awkward. Generally people will pose in a way they feel comfortable and all that is needed are minor refinements. Take a look at hands and remember they usually appear better in a photograph shot from the side rather than straight on. Heads look better slightly tilted. In a seated pose have your subject sit on the edge of the seat and lean forward slightly. In a standing pose turn them to a 45 degree angle. Bodies look better this way than shot straight on. If they have pockets it sometimes help to have them put their hands in them, this creates dynamic angles with the arms and eliminates awkward dangling hands.
Lighting can be the trickiest part. However, good lighting separates snapshots from portraits. The easiest lighting to work with is open shade. Areas of shade that is still getting plenty of light make great portraits. If necessary use a little fill flash on your camera to get light in the eyes if they are dark. Make sure that when shooting in open shade you avoid getting bright spots that are not in the shade in the background. Also watch mottled shade. When the sun comes through the leaves of trees it is pretty lighting to the eye, but in a flat photograph the lighting will appear uneven on skin and clothing and look strange. If possible shoot in the late evening or early morning hours when the light is softer. Evening light will produce nice warm results on the skin. The blue tones that morning light and open shade cause can be corrected with computer software designed for digital photographs, like Photoshop. Avoid shooting in harsh sunlight when possible.
Some last tips are to make sure your subject is at ease and try and get natural expressions. A snapshot can easily turn into a portrait that belongs on the wall if you just take the time to perfect it.
Written by Susie Lee. She is a Wedding and portrait photographer in Utah.
Article from Associated Content
http://www.associatedcontent.com/user/72128/susie_lee.html
Backgrounds in snapshots have distracting elements, don't complement the subject and generally appear unplanned. When composing your shot, watch for bright spots of light behind your subject and anything that will draw your eye away from the main focus. Take a step to one side, zoom in or get closer or even move your subject before taking the picture. A good general rule is that the background should have the same lighting or be slightly darker than the person you are shooting. Busy patterned backgrounds and colors that don't compliment their clothing will also take away from the overall image. If you shoot with an SLR camera step back as far as you can and zoom in on your subject or use a large aperture opening to blur the background. This will make the person in the image pop and will yield very professional results. If color is a problem after the image is taken try turning it into a black and white image. You may end up with some great results.
Posing is not complex. It just requires being mindful of how your subject will appear on a flat photograph. Picking up a basic book on posing isn't a bad idea. Although studio posing and outdoor posing are slightly different the rules will be the same. Make sure your subject looks relaxed. Even the best posing is spoiled if someone appears stiff and awkward. Generally people will pose in a way they feel comfortable and all that is needed are minor refinements. Take a look at hands and remember they usually appear better in a photograph shot from the side rather than straight on. Heads look better slightly tilted. In a seated pose have your subject sit on the edge of the seat and lean forward slightly. In a standing pose turn them to a 45 degree angle. Bodies look better this way than shot straight on. If they have pockets it sometimes help to have them put their hands in them, this creates dynamic angles with the arms and eliminates awkward dangling hands.
Lighting can be the trickiest part. However, good lighting separates snapshots from portraits. The easiest lighting to work with is open shade. Areas of shade that is still getting plenty of light make great portraits. If necessary use a little fill flash on your camera to get light in the eyes if they are dark. Make sure that when shooting in open shade you avoid getting bright spots that are not in the shade in the background. Also watch mottled shade. When the sun comes through the leaves of trees it is pretty lighting to the eye, but in a flat photograph the lighting will appear uneven on skin and clothing and look strange. If possible shoot in the late evening or early morning hours when the light is softer. Evening light will produce nice warm results on the skin. The blue tones that morning light and open shade cause can be corrected with computer software designed for digital photographs, like Photoshop. Avoid shooting in harsh sunlight when possible.
Some last tips are to make sure your subject is at ease and try and get natural expressions. A snapshot can easily turn into a portrait that belongs on the wall if you just take the time to perfect it.
Written by Susie Lee. She is a Wedding and portrait photographer in Utah.
Article from Associated Content
http://www.associatedcontent.com/user/72128/susie_lee.html
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